How to taste sweet wine
December 15, 2006
Before you pair a wine with dessert, it’s important to taste the wine carefully and think about what you are tasting. Here are some tricks sommeliers and wine experts use as they pair food and wine.
-Be sure to chill sweet wine well, as the lower temperature diminishes the perception of sweetness, allowing the other flavors in the wine to pop.
-Pour in a glass large enough to trap the aromas.
-Swirl the wine in the glass, then smell it. Try to verbalize what you smell.
-Take a long sip, enough to coat the entire inside of your mouth. Be sure to breathe through your mouth.
-Taste the dessert.
-Take a bite of the dessert in your mouth and add a sip of wine. Yes, this will slime your glass, but it’s necessary. Ask yourself if one flavor buries the other.
-Ask yourself if they do anything for each other.
Celebrate Christmas > The Greek Style II
December 15, 2006
If Christmas is Greek to you or you’d just like it to be, you’re in luck. Jim Botsacos shares a Christmas menu straight from his new cookbook, “The New Greek Cuisine.”
Lemon Spoon Sweets
Ingredients >
• 12 medium thick-skinned lemons, preferably organic
• Sugar to equal 3/4 of the weight of the fruit, about 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons
Method >
1. Begin this preparation in the morning. Using a kitchen scrub pad (such as a Dobie pad), scrub the lemons under warm running water until the skin is bright yellow. Do not remove the skin.
2. Using the fine side of a box grater, zest off just the very exterior yellow peel of each lemon; you do not want to grate any white pith. Reserve the zest for another use. You should be left with whole lemons that are completely white with just a faint yellow tint.
3. Using a small sharp knife, lightly score the pith from top to bottom 4 or 5 times at equal intervals. Carefully remove each segment of the pith and discard the lemon pulp. One at a time, place the petal-shaped pieces of pith, outside surface down, on a cutting board. Using a paring knife, horizontally slice across to remove most of the fibrous tissue from the inside.
4. Thread a large larding needle with unwaxed thread about 12 inches long. Set aside.
5. Roll each lemon petal into a tight cigarlike roll. Insert the needle through the center of the roll to hold it tightly in place. Continue stringing lemon petals until all the petals are on a string. You will need to make a few strings.
6. Place the threaded lemon petal rolls in a large bowl with cold water to cover by about 2 inches. Place in the refrigerator. At noon, drain and cover again with fresh cold water. In the early evening, repeat the draining and covering with water. Just before bedtime, again drain and cover with cold water. Refrigerate until the next morning. As they soak, the lemon rolls will become more pliable.
7. In the morning, drain the lemon rolls. Transfer to a large saucepan and add cold water to cover by 2 inches. Place over high heat and bring to a boil. Boil for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and drain well. Repeat this process 3 times. After the final time, taste for bitterness. The lemon rolls should have a little bite but not be bitter. If still bitter, repeat the process until bitterness disappears. Set aside to cool.
8. Remove the lemon rolls from the string. The rolls should hold their shape.
9. Weigh the rolls. You should have about 12 ounces.
10. Measure out sugar to equal the weight of the rolls.
11. Place the sugar in a nonreactive 2-quart saucepan. Add 2 cups water. The mixture should resemble wet sand. Place over medium heat and cook, stirring constantly, for about 1 minute, or until the sugar dissolves.
12. Stir in the lemon rolls. Add water, if necessary, to cover the rolls by 2 inches. Bring to a boil, then lower to a simmer and cover, with the lid slightly ajar. Simmer, stirring and skimming occasionally, for about 1 1/2 hours, or until the liquid is clear and syrupy. Periodically taste the syrup for sweetness, allowing it to cool first, it should be neither too sweet nor too tart.
13. To test for doneness, lift some of the syrup up by a metal spoon. When it runs off the spoon and holds a stream, it is done. The liquid will solidify further as it cools.
14. Remove from the heat and transfer to a nonreactive container. Set aside to cool. When cool, cover and refrigerate for 8 hours or overnight.
15. Remove from the refrigerator and check for texture, consistency, and flavor. Even if it is perfect, and I’ll almost guarantee that it won’t be, add 1/2 cup water and place in a nonreactive saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer and simmer for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.
16. When cool, check the consistency. It should be quite thick. Serve or transfer to a glass container, cover, and refrigerate for up to 3 months.
Celebrate Christmas > The Greek Style I
December 15, 2006
If Christmas is Greek to you or you’d just like it to be, you’re in luck! Jim Botsacos shares a Christmas menu straight from his new cookbook, “The New Greek Cuisine.”
Poached Grouper Mayonesa > Makes about 2 cups
This is my contemporary version of Athinaiki, a classic Greek dish. Traditionally, the fish is poached, boned, and molded into a fish shape, and decorated with thinly sliced carrots as scales and olives for eyes. Quite old-fashioned, but since the basic dish is so delicious, I thought it was worth reviving in this up-to-date version.
Ingredients >
• Juice of 1 lemon
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 2 tablespoons white vinegar
• 5 black peppercorns
• 2 celery ribs, thinly sliced
• 1 carrot, thinly sliced
• 1 onion, thinly sliced
• Coarse salt and freshly ground white pepper
• Three 7-ounce grouper fillets, skin on
• Zest of 1 lemon
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped capers
• 1 tablespoon finely sliced fresh chives
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill
• 1 cup Mayonnaise
• About 2 cups baby salad greens
• Pickled vegetables
• 6 slices Lagana or other crusty bread, toasted (optional)
For the Mayonnaise >
• 3 large egg yolks at room temperature
• 1 large egg at room temperature
• 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
• 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
• 1 1/2 teaspoons coarse salt
• 1/2 teaspoon sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
• 1 1/4 cups canola oil
• 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
Method >
1. Place 2 quarts cold water in a large saucepan. Add the lemon juice, wine, and vinegar along with the peppercorns, celery, carrot, and onion. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Immediately lower the heat and add enough salt to highly season the liquid, about 1 tablespoon. Simmer for 10 minutes.
2. Place the fish in the simmering liquid. Loosely cover and lower the heat to a bare simmer. Poach the fish for about 10 minutes, or until the flesh is white and very tender. Remove from the heat and allow the fish to cool in the poaching liquid. When cool, using a slotted spatula, carefully transfer the fish to a cutting board.
3. Gently pull off the skin using your fingertips.
4. Using a kitchen fork or 2 spoons, carefully pull the fish into flakes. Place the fish flakes in a mixing bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for about 30 minutes, or until chilled.
5. Fold the lemon zest, capers, chives, and dill into the Mayonnaise. Remove the fish from the refrigerator and fold the Mayonnaise into the fish. Season with salt and white pepper to taste.
6. Place a small mound of baby greens in the center of each of 6 plates. Top with about 3/4 cup of the fish mixture. Place a small amount of pickled vegetables around the plate and serve with toasted Lagana or other crusty bread if desired.
To make the Mayonnaise >
1. Combine the egg yolks, egg, lemon juice, mustard, salt, sugar, and pepper in a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process for 1 minute. With the motor running, add one third of the canola oil in a slow, steady stream, processing to emulsify. Add 1 tablespoon of water and then another third of the oil and another tablespoon of water, processing to emulsify. If necessary to achieve mayonnaise consistency, add another tablespoon of water. With the motor running, add all of the remaining oil in a slow, steady stream, processing to emulsify completely.
2. Store, covered and refrigerated, for up to 3 days.
Christmas Goose with chestnut puree
December 15, 2006
Ingredients >
• One large goose, 11 lb., seasoned with a mixture of salt, sugar equal parts (about 3 oz.)
• 1 or 2 apple or pear, use tart, hard baking fruit
For the Chestnut Puree >
• 1 lb. peeled chestnuts
• 2 c chicken stock
• 1/2 c cream, warmed with 2 T butter
• salt and pepper
Method >
Sprinkle mixture of salt and sugar over the bird the night before.
With a larder, pierce the fruit through the flesh, two or three times to fill tube.
In the fleshy parts, stick the goose with the larder, push on tab as you remove the larder.
Repeat 2-3 times until you have used all the fruit.
Using one hypodermic needle (it can be bought at a pharmacy) fill with your choice of liquor, (I recommend amaretto and Grand Marnier, 1 cup total) and inject throughout the bird.
Preheat oven 325 degrees F, use middle rack. Bake goose, rotating every 20-25 minutes. Use large roasting pan with v-rack to aide in rotation. Check the inside of the thigh near the hip with thermometer for temperature of 135-145 degrees. Remove and allow to rest for thirty minutes before serving.
To make the Chestnut Puree >
Simmer together until tender. Puree in food processor. Add butter, salt, pepper, cream.
Buche de Noel
December 15, 2006
A traditional French dessert served during the holidays, everybody gets excited about these each year.
They come in every kind of flavor combination: chocolate/coffee, chocolate/caramel, lemon, raspberry, there are even ice-cream-cake versions. They’re usually made with a sponge cake, layered with flavored buttercream or other filling, rolled up and then covered with more buttercream and decorated with powdered sugar, fondant leaves or mushrooms, or other decorations. Intended to look like a log ready for the fire, they’re eaten on Christmas day.
The tradition originated in pagan times, when a log would be burned on the shortest day of the year to symbolize the rebirth of the sun. The tradition survived Christianity and evolved into a pastry when (some say) Napoleon I put a stop to the burning of the log in France by requiring that Parisiens close their chimneys during the winter for better health. With no more yule log to burn, french bakers invented a replacement: the buche de noel.
You can get a Buche de Noel at Payard Patisserie, Bouley Bakery, and at Kitchenette. Pre-ordering is recommended.
Related Links >
http://www.payard.com/xmas.php
Roast Goose with Garlic, Onion and Sage Stuffing
December 15, 2006
Ingredients >
For the Stuffing >
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
2 small onions, finely chopped
2 celery stalks, diced
5 garlic cloves, chopped
1 14-ounce bag cubed herbed stuffing mix
1-1/2 tablespoons rubbed or ground dried sage
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon Italian Seasoning
2 eggs, beaten to blend
1 cup chicken stock or canned broth
For the Goose >
1 11- to 13-pound goose, fat removed from cavity
1 lemon, halved
3 bacon slices
Method >
First, make the stuffing. Melt butter in heavy large skillet over medium heat. Add onions, celery and garlic and sauté until soft, about 8 minutes. Combine stuffing mixture, sage, salt, oregano, thyme, pepper and Italian Seasoning in large bowl. Stir in onion mixture and eggs. Add stock and mix well. Set aside.
Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Rinse goose inside and out; pat dry, using paper towel. Rub goose inside and out with halved lemon. Season goose inside and out with salt and pepper. Fill main cavity and neck cavity loosely with stuffing.
Place any remaining stuffing in small buttered baking dish and cover with foil. Run fingers between breast meat and skin to loosen skin. Place bacon slices under breast skin. Wrap goose in cheesecloth.
Place goose on rack set into large roasting pan. Roast goose 30 minutes. Reduce heat to 350 degrees. Continue roasting until meat thermometer inserted into thickest part to thigh registers 180 degrees, basting every 20 minutes with pan juices, about 1 hour 20 minutes.
Place stuffing in covered baking dish in oven during last 40 minutes. Remove cheesecloth. Transfer goose to platter. Pass stuffing separately. Serves six.
Christmas Ale Sauce
December 15, 2006
Ingredients >
4 tablespoons butter
8 ounces cremini mushrooms, cut into quarters
1/3 cup finely chopped shallots
3/4 cup ready-to-serve beef broth
1/2 cup red ale
1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
Method >
Melt half of the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add mushrooms and shallots. Cook and stir 4 to 5 minutes or until mushrooms are browned.
Add broth and ale. Cook and stir 8 minutes or until reduced by half. Whisk in mustard until combined.
Remove from heat. Whisk in remaining two tablespoons of butter. Season with salt and pepper.







