Amazing obelisks

Old friends, they chattered away, unconcerned by the distance or the stones at their bare feet.Although they readily accepted my offer of a ride, they would only take it to the halfway point because they did not want to arrive at their destination too early.

While Axum was once an important cosmopolitan center, today it is a dusty little town, with camels traversing the main road as barefoot children play soccer on unpaved side streets.

You can still catch glimpses of Axum’s former glory, however, at Stele Park, where there are numerous giant obelisks painstakingly carved in intricate patterns from slabs of solid granite.

Queen Sheba

In their architectural sophistication, the steles are reminiscent of those from ancient Egypt and Greece. Similarly, in the town center, there is another little park with a stone dating back to 330 AD, when King Ezana was converted to Christianity by Syrian monks.

The stone, which records his military victories and conversion to Christianity, is written in three languages — Sabaean, Ge’ez and Greek. Sabaean is a pre-Christian dialect, while Ge’ez is the 2,500 year-old language of Ethiopian priests, and Greek was the commercial language of that time.

Ark in Axum

Ethiopian Christians say that the Ark of the Covenant resides in Axum in a vault near the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion, where only the head priest of the church is allowed to view it.

As I could not see the Ark, I do not know for sure if it is there. No other country claims to have the Ark, however, and there is no alternative theory to its whereabouts except that it simply disappeared.

Ethiopians also claim that the Queen of Sheba was an Ethiopian who lived in Axum. To prove it, they will show you the remains of her palace and a bath dug out of red granite on a hillside that is still used to this day as a public source for water.

Lost kingdoms

I also don’t know whether the remains of the castle really belonged to the Queen of Sheba — or even if she was Ethiopian. Some scholars believe, for example, that she came from Yemen.

However, this is not really an alternative explanation, given that 2,500 years ago Axum was one of the principal cities in the kingdom of Saba that was centered in Yemen.

End of the trail

Whatever the case may be, standing by the remains of what was once a castle — and still is a bath on rocky terrain very similar to that around Jerusalem — made me wonder about the ties between Axum and Jerusalem during the days of King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba.

Lalibela is the final stop on the historic trail. Visiting its eleven rock-hewn churches underscored for me the mystery around Ethiopia’s past. The churches are carved out of monolithic slabs of soft red volcanic stone to create free standing buildings with intricate pillars outside and beautifully carved rooms inside.

Each church has an alcove facing toward the east in the direction of Jerusalem and the river dividing them into two sections was named the Jordan River by King Lalibela who made the town his capital in the 12th century, after having spent most of his life in Jerusalem.

Angelic architecture

The largest church, Bet Medhane Alem, measures almost 80 by 110 feet and is three stories high. It is said to be the largest rock-hewn church in the world. To this day, nobody knows how it was built. My Ethiopian guide told me with all sincerity that it is the work of angels, guided by King Lalibela.

Was the Queen of Sheba really an Ethiopian monarch? Did she, as the Ethiopians say, journey to Israel and return with a son, Menelik, by the Jewish king, Solomon? Most important, did Menelik go back to Jerusalem as a young man and return with the Ark of the Covenant?

Unanswered questions

And, is there a connection between the Ethiopian Jews and the ancient Judaic civilization of the Ark of the Covenant? While these are unanswered questions
to most of the world,they are historical facts to Ethiopians.

A trip along the historic trail may not answer these questions for you, but you will return safely home wanting to know more.

I know that when I set up my nativity scene this Christmas, I will wonder if the figurine of the black wise man bearing gifts of frankincense and myrrh for the baby Jesus is actually a depiction of an Ethiopian from Axum.

Ethiopia is easy to overlook as a travel destination, as it is one of the poorest countries in the world — and the site of much warfare. However, traveling in northeastern Ethiopia is safer than one might imagine. The country should be a top destination — provided one enjoys nature, religious history and simpler accommodations, says Susan Braden.

The conflict with Eritrea has been over for more than five years and the government of President Meles Zanawi has brought a degree of calm to the country that enables foreigners to traverse the historic trail safely and in relative comfort.

Ethiopia is the site of one of the oldest Christian empires in the world. It also has an intriguing claim to being the caretaker of the most important relic of the Old Testament, the Ark of the Covenant.

Outside of the country, most people believe the wooden box built by Moses to protect the stone tablets inscribed by God with the Ten Commandments is lost and has been for more than 3,000 years.

Ark theory

Ask a native, however, and you will be told that the Ark is safely tucked away in Ethiopia. Spend a couple of weeks there — and you will think so too.

To understand the role Ethiopia played in the ancient world and its Christian heritage requires a quick review of the map and a ten-day trip from Bahar Dar to Gonder, Axum and Lalibela.

Deep history

From the map, you will gain an appreciation for northeastern Ethiopia’s strategic location along two critical transportation routes — the Blue Nile and the Red Sea.

The trip along the historic trail will give you an intuitive understanding for Ethiopia’s ties to the ancient Greeks, Egyptians and Israelites. On Lake Tana, for example, you will see flat reed boats bearing an uncanny resemblance to the reed boats on the Nile outside of Cairo.

Similarly, you will see indigenous Jews in Falasha settlements outside of Gonder and hear about local customs that underscore the deep connection between Judaism and Ethiopian Christianity.

Long journey

Starting in Addis Abba, it takes about an hour on Ethiopian Airlines to reach Bahar Dar, the stopping off point for a visit to the Blue Nile Falls and the island monasteries of Lake Tana. Although the falls were once considered the most spectacular in Africa, the construction of a hydroelectric dam nearby has so reduced its flow as to cause the locals to describe it as “a drunken man pissing.”

According to the Ethiopians, the Ark was taken to the islands for safe keeping by Menelik, the son of the Queen of Sheba and King Solomon, at a time when the Temple of Solomon was under attack.

Rooted tradition

He carried the Ark to Egypt and then followed the Nile to the island monasteries on Lake Tana, where it was kept until the fourth century when Ethiopia converted from Judaism to Christianity and the Ark was moved to Axum.

From Lake Tana, the next stop is Gonder which takes a little over three hours to reach by jeep along a well-built road constructed by the Italians during their occupation of Ethiopia from 1931 to 1941.

Gonder’s major attractions are its 17th century castles built by Emperor Fasiladas and his siblings beginning in 1636, when Gonder became the capital of Ethiopia for the next 200 years.

Land of righteousness

Other attractions include an enormous bath where thousands of people are still blessed during the January 19 (Gregorian calendar) celebration of Timket, or the Epiphany, commemorating Christ’s baptism by Saint John in the Jordan River.

There is also the church of Debre Berhan Selassie, a relatively plain thatched-roof structure on the outside with beautiful paintings depicting various scenes from the Bible on the inside.

Bloody history

In one scene, for example, St. George is depicted slaying the dragon and in another St. Mary is conversing with Mohammad, who is about to choose a path she opposes.

Ethiopia’s connection to Islam is almost as old as its ties to Judaism and Christianity. The prophet Mohammad reportedly told his early followers who were being persecuted in Arabia to emigrate to Ethiopia, “a land of righteousness.”

In subsequent years, relations between Muslims and Christians soured and turned into bloody wars. Today, however, the country is almost evenly divided between Moslems and Christians, co-existing in relative harmony.

Back on the Italian road, the next stop is Axum. On the way there, you will journey into the heart of the Simien mountains where children are herding sheep and goats amongst 14,700 foot mountain peaks.

With any luck, you will also see baboons, Walia Ibex and pilgrims making there way to monasteries in the area. At the top of one very high peak, I met three very old ladies dressed in yellow robes with walking canes, making a 60-mile pilgrimage to St. Mary’s church.

For fans of cruise holidays and a hassle free Christmas where you are the one getting waited on, then there the festive season also features some serious price cuts.

Italian cruise operator Costa Cruises is offering a traditional continental Christmas Eve feast and celebration with midnight mass, a turkey lunch on Christmas Day, carol singing around the piano, Christmas tree decorating and a visit from Santa, all aboard its ships.

The company has £440 off the price of its Christmas Mediterranean eight-night cruise, which is £749 per person, including all meals and flights, departing December 18th 2006.

The trip departs from Savona, and stops at Messina in Sicily, the Maltese city of La Valletta, the Libyan capital Tripoli, Gabes and Tunis in Tunisia.

Other trips include a ten-night cruise to Greece, Cyprus and Egypt that is discounted £350 to £1,029 departing 18 December 2006.

For more information see www.costacruises.co.uk

Desert island Christmas; Fundu Lagoon, Pemba Island
Spend Christmas basking in the sun on an idyllic paradise island……and leave the cold weather and Christmas crackers far behind you.

Share a hammock with a bikini clad babe on a white, sandy beach rather than the sofa with granny and enjoy the perfect alternative to Christmas at Fundu Lagoon, off the coast of Tanzania.

Fundu Lagoon is located on Pemba, a remote and relatively unknown island north of Zanzibar. The tiny traditional villages of Pemba have had little impact on the coast and the coral reefs around Pemba are largely in pristine condition. Pemba is surrounded by dramatic and exciting coral reefs stretching as far as the eye can see.

Listed as one of the top diving locations in the world, you can explore the exciting and rich waters of the Indian Ocean from above and below the sea. Fundu’s fully-equipped PADI Resort Diving and watersports centre offers range of activities including diving, snorkelling, kayaking and deep sea fishing.

For those who want to escape from Christmas at home but still want some festivities, Fundu Lagoon do not disappoint. Instead of the usual turkey and stuffing, Christmas dinner is a lavish lobster and seafood buffet on the beach. Each guest can wake up on Christmas morning to find a makuti basket crammed full of presents from the hotel, sarongs, spices, books etc.

to escape to offers 7 nights at Fundu Lagoon on a all inclusive basis from £2199 per person. Prices include return flights from Zanzibar to Pemba and airport transfers but not international flights.

Will Santa find you in the middle of the African bush? Oliver’s Camp and Sayari South, Tanzania

Spend Christmas exploring the safari wonderland of Tarangire National Park in Tanzania. Oliver’s Camp is one of Tanzania’s best bush camps, offering the best quality game experience in Tarangire’s unspoiled wilderness area.

Swop the scratched Christmas carol record for the sounds of the African bush as you enjoy Christmas dinner under under the star filled African sky. Sleep off the ample food and wine in your own private fly camp before moving on to Sayari South Camp in the Serengeti.

Celebrate one of the biggest days of the year surrounded by tens of thousands of wildebeest in the Serengeti National Park. Enjoy phenomenal game drives amidst the world famous migration in the beautiful Moru Kopjes, southwest of the Serengeti,

Book a minimum of 3 nights at either Oliver’s Camp (Tarangire) or Sayari South (Serengeti) and experience either your own private dinner and fly camp under the African sky in Tarangire (Oliver’s Camp) or private bush dinner in the Serengeti (Sayari South), and who knows, maybe a shooting star will shine to embrace the special season.

to escape to offers 3 nights Oliver’s Camp followed by 3 nights at Sayari South Camp on a all inclusive basis from £2699 per person. Prices include return transfers and flights between the camps as well as return international flights from the UK.

Santa’s dhow, Londo Lodge, Mozambique
Londo Lodge, a private bush and beach resort located on Pemba Bay in Northern Mozambique offers its guests a truly unique Christmas experience.

On Christmas Day, their guests are swept away in a traditional dhow to enjoy a stunningly romantic sunset cruise in Pemba bay. Skippered by none other than Santa, who has swapped his sleigh for a traditional dhow, the guests are then dropped on a deserted beach. Christmas drinks are served around a roaring bonfire before the guests settle down for a candlelit Christmas dinner.

Guests at Londo Lodge enjoy the highest standards of barefoot luxury lodging and hospitality amidst stunning views of the Indian Ocean. The five spacious, octagon-shaped villas guarantee full privacy and provide a true African feel. Londo Lodge offers a wide variety of activities including snorkelling in unexplored coral reefs, world-class gamefishing, kayaking through pristine mangroves and bush walks in and around the Quirimbas National Park. Londo Lodge is a combination of a stunning beach hideaway and a true wilderness experience.

to escape to offers 7 nights at Londo Lodge on a full board basis exluding drinks from £2280 per person. Prices include all internal and international flights and transfers to the lodge.

Christmas serenades with a difference; Schoongezight villa; Plettenburg Bay, SA
Celebrate Christmas day in true South African style by swopping turkey roast for an outdoor Christmas braai (bbq) on the large patio at Schoongezight villa in Plettenberg Bay.

Schoongezight is a stunning five bedroom villa (with an additional flat let) located in a prime position to enjoy the sweeping views of the unspoilt beaches stretching below. With a sparkling eternity pool, private gym and fully equipped facilities, Schoongezight is the perfect place to enjoy this festive period.

This is truly a perfect Christmas break for the whole family with the kids kept busy by going swimming, surfing and whale and dolphin spotting. Burn off that excess Christmas indulgence by sweating it out in your own private gym in the house or playing a few holes at the golf course which the house overlooks.

If you don’t feel like you are getting into the festive mood enough then a traditional African choir can be arranged to create your unique Christmas atmosphere.

to escape to offers 14 nights at Schoonezight Villa on a self catering basis from £2129 per person (based on 8 people sharing). Price includes car hire (15 days with super cover) and return international flights from the UK.

For more information, please visit > www.toescapeto.com