If your only taste of Mexican culinary culture comes from beer and tequila advertisements, you’ve missed a world of flavor.
Going beyond guacamole and margaritas, Cinco de Mayo is a time to explore authentic Mexican cookery. “Most non-Hispanic Americans don’t have to travel south of the border to encounter a taste of real Mexico,” says Rick Bayless, author of Authentic Mexican: Regional Cooking From the Heart of Mexico (William Morrow, $30), now available in a 20th-anniversary edition. “There are authentic grocery stores and ma-and-pa restaurants catering to Mexicans popping up as fast as Starbucks.”
On a drive up U.S. Highway 441 in north Orange County, culinary explorers will find small eateries and stores, such as Taqueria Los Primos in Apopka and La Parada Mexicana near Plymouth. In west Volusia County, from DeLand to DeLeon Springs, grocery stores such as San Vicente and eateries such as Los Dos Compadres offer inspiration and resources to cook authentic dishes. And in Osceola County, Vallarta Mexican Grill and La Placita Latina, both in Kissimmee, offer spice and flavor for adventurous cooks.
Flans, pork stew and moles (savory sauces flavored with a small amount of chocolate) are signature dishes of Puebla. For our celebration, we’re showcasing Mole Poblano de Guajolote, a spicy turkey mole typical of Puebla. Complex cuisines flourished in Puebla before the Cinco de Mayo battle. Mole recipes vary in Mexico, but the ingredients are similar.
Dark and Spicy Mole With Turkey >
10- to 12-pound turkey, cut up into pieces
16 medium dried mulato chilies
5 medium dried ancho chilies
1 canned chipotle chili, seeded
1/4 cup sesame seeds, dry roasted, plus extra for garnish
1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds, dry roasted
3/4 cup vegetable oil, plus more as needed
Heaping 1/3 cup unskinned almonds
1/3 cup raisins
1/2 of a medium onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1 corn tortilla, stale or dried
2 slices firm white bread, stale or dried
1 large tomato, boiled, cored and peeled
2 ounces Mexican chocolate, chopped
10 black peppercorns
4 cloves
1/2 teaspoon anise seed
1 inch cinnamon stick
2 1/2 quarts chicken broth
Coarse salt to taste
1/4 cup sugar
1. Stem, seed and devein ancho and mulato chilies, reserving 2 teaspoons seeds. Tear chilies into flat pieces. Dry roast the reserved seeds. Combine peppercorns, cloves, anise and cinnamon and pulverize with spice grinder. Place tomato in a large bowl with the chocolate. Add all roasted seeds to bowl.
2. With exhaust fan on, fry chili pieces in 1/4 cup oil. Remove from pan, draining as much oil as possible. Cover chilies with boiling water and weight down to submerge. Let soak 1 hour. Drain and combine with chipotle chili. Puree chilies in 3 batches using about 1/2 cup broth with each batch.
3. Heat in 1/4 cup vegetable oil in same skillet. Add nuts, stirring frequently, 4 minutes. Remove nuts, draining well, and add to tomato mixture. Fry raisins 1 minute, stirring. Remove, draining well, and add to tomato mixture. In same pan, cook onions and garlic 8 minutes. Add to tomato mixture.
4. If needed, add more oil to pan to fry tortilla. Break up tortilla; add to tomato mixture. Lay bread in pan and flip over to coat with oil, then brown on both sides. Tear into pieces; add to tomato mixture. Puree 1/4 of it with 1/2 cup broth. Strain through sieve and repeat with remaining tomato mixture.
5. Brown turkey pieces in oil, 4 minutes per side. Remove to large roasting pan. In same pan that you browned the turkey, stir chili puree 5 minutes. Add tomato puree and stir until mixture thickens. Add 5 cups broth, partially cover, reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer 45 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and sugar. If sauce is thicker than heavy cream, thin with broth.
6. Heat oven to 350 F. Pour sauce over turkey. Cover and bake 2 hours. Remove turkey; let cool. Skim fat from sauce. Remove skin from turkey and cut meat from bones in large pieces. Before serving, pour sauce over turkey and heat in 2 or 3 baking dishes smothered in sauce, 15-20 minutes. Garnish with sesame seeds. Yield: 12-15 servings.