Today marks the beginning of the end of the Carnival season, four more days of watching parades, snaring beads and eating Moon Pies before the Order of Myths wraps everything up on Fat Tuesday.
The weekend will also be chock-full of strange Mobile Mardi Gras traditions, from the Joe Cain Procession to Folly chasing Death with inflated pig bladders. For the visitors and newcomers to the area, along with the natives who never knew but were too embarrassed to ask, here’s a handy guide to fill everyone in on the mysteries of Mardi Gras.
Vernadean
This giant fire-breathing, smoke-spewing dragon float has been the hit of Saturday night’s Mystics of Time parade since the organization first hit the streets in 1949.
Originally 45 feet long, the dragon has since grown to its current 150-foot long incarnation. Along the way, it sired two offspring, smaller dragons named Verna and Dean, which also ride in the parade.
A replica and full-size model of Vernadean sit in the Mobile Carnival Museum on Government Street.
The Mystics of Time Parade starts at 6 p.m.
The Goat Man
The Saturday before Fat Tuesday each year is designated “Goat Day” in Prichard. The Krewe of Goats formed in 1995 and is based in Prichard but is not affiliated with the Prichard Mardi Gras Association. The society held its first parade in 1996.
The Goat Man portrays a resident of the Bullshead area of Prichard who in the 1920s tended a small herd of goats.
At the time, when Mardi Gras was mostly for the rich, he began hitching goats to a homemade cart and traveling up and down the narrow dirt roads, singing and tossing homemade trinkets, such as cookies, wooden whistles, marbles and popguns, to the crowd.
This year’s Goat Man is Elmer Craig, a great-grandfather and former Marine, corrections officer and aerospace technology worker.
Joe Cain
Joseph Stillwell Cain is widely credited as the father of Mobile’s modern Mardi Gras.
Mobile denizens had taken part in Mardi Gras festivities as early as 1704, when the city was the capital of the French colony in America. But the Civil War put an end to the celebrations.
In 1866, while Mobile was still occupied by Union troops, Cain, who was a town clerk, dressed up as a Chickasaw Indian chief and drove a coal wagon through the city streets. The costume had a rebellious symbolism, as the Chickasaw tribe had never been defeated in battle.
Cain took part in Mardi Gras until his death in 1904. In 1966, Cain’s body was removed from a Bayou La Batre grave and reinterred in the Church Street Graveyard, where Joe Cain Day celebrations begin every Sunday before Fat Tuesday.
The celebration is known as “The People’s Parade,” because originally anyone was allowed to join the procession. Police have since capped the number of participants.
Chief Slacabamorinico
The fictional Chickasaw chief that Joe Cain invented for that 1866 procession. Only four men have played Old Slac throughout Mobile’s Mardi Gras history.
Cain dressed as the chief until 1879, then Old Slac went dormant for nearly 90 years. The chief was reincarnated in 1967, when Julian Lee “Judy” Rayford — a Mardi Gras historian, enthusiast and folklorist who had arranged to have Cain reburied at the Church Street Graveyard — donned the headdress while leading the first Joe Cain Day procession.
Rayford turned over the role to J.B. “Red” Foster, chief inspector for the Mobile Fire Department, in 1969.
Foster stepped down in 1985 and was replaced by the Rev. Bennett Wayne Dean Sr., pastor of the Excel and Megargel United Methodist Churches in Monroe County, who will lead the parade Sunday.
The Merry Widows
Old Slac leads the procession, but it’s the Merry Widows who kick off Joe Cain Day.
Starting in 1974, every Joe Cain Day, the “widows” don black gowns, hats and veils and gather to go to the entrance of Church Street Graveyard early Sunday to weep and moan near the grave of their departed “husband,” Joe Cain.
After the mourning, they start dancing and partying, and then move on to Cain’s former home, at 906 Augusta St., to toast and eulogize the man.
During the actual Joe Cain Day procession, the widows, there are between 10 and 20, and their true identities are kept secret, ride in a trolley-like vehicle tossing cups, beads and black roses to the crowd.
Comic Cowboys
Every Fat Tuesday, the Comic Cowboys forsake fancy floats and costumes and instead parade through Mobile on flatbed trucks festooned with satiric handmade signs mocking newsmakers of the previous year.
The Cowboys were founded in 1884 under the slogan “Without Malice” and take pot shots at everyone from local football heroes to national politicians.
“Honk if you Sacked Brody,” read a sign last year after Alabama quarterback Brody Croyle was brought down 11 times in a 28-18 loss to Auburn.
“California, the only state where the illegal aliens speak better English than the governor,” read another after Arnold Schwarzenegger was elected governor of the Golden State.
The Cowboys follow the Knights of Revelry at 12:30 p.m.
Mardi Gras Royalty
Every year, the Mobile Carnival Association (a traditionally white organization) and the Mobile Area Mardi Gras Association (a traditionally black organization) anoint kings and queens to rule over their Fat Tuesday parades and other festivities.
The Carnival Association chooses King Felix III and Queen Helen. This year the king is Max Bruckmann, and the queen is Helen Beatrice Meaher. The two are chosen nearly a year before Mardi Gras, crowned Saturday night, given the key to the city on Monday and lead the King Felix parade on Fat Tuesday.
MAMGA chooses its King Elexis I and queen, who this year are Joseph Jermaine Roberson and Stefannie Jacinta Lucas. The pair are crowned Sunday evening, have a Royal Feast on Monday and lead the MAMGA Mammoth Parade on Tuesday.
Both sets of royalty have courts of knights and ladies, or maidens, who accompany them.
Folly chasing Death
The Order of Myths, Mardi Gras’ final parade, always has one float that features a jester named Folly, armed with inflated pig bladders, chasing the skeletal figure of Death around the broken column of life.
Most agree the scene symbolizes that laughter is the only way to deal with the imminence of mortality, although some say Folly and Death, who debuted shortly after the Civil War, also represent the South and the North, respectively.
Whenever Folly hits Death with a pig bladder, it’s a strike against the Union army, some claim.
In the Knights of Revelry parade earlier on Fat Tuesday, Folly is also played by someone on a float, and he vigorously beats his inflated pig bladders against the float.
Masked Observer
Also referred to as the M.O. or the Masked One, he works for the Press-Register, filing exclusive reports throughout Carnival season.
The Observer’s identity remains cloaked largely because it affords him the ability to move among Mobile’s secret societies unnoticed. He is a well-tailored fly on the wall.
His job, essentially, is to attend many of the area’s Carnival balls and report back on the goings on. It must be said that he also views himself as something of a torchbearer for the older, more courtly ways; a Mr. Manners of Mardi Gras, if you will.
For example, his nom de plume is a bit of a misnomer, in that he does not wear a mask while attending balls. Doing so would actually make him far more conspicuous and, more important, would not be proper, since tradition holds that only mystic society members wear masks at their social events.
It can be said that there is only one Observer, and he has always been the Observer. It does not, as some have guessed, work like mall Santas.