When we think of our friends in Louisiana these days, we don’t tend to focus on their rich culinary history. We think of what they’ve been through, during and after Hurricanes Katrina and Rita. So this Thanksgiving, let’s take a few moments to honor them, their challenges and their wonderful contributions to American culture, great culinary creations among them.

After all, who else but a food-obsessed Louisianan would have had the idea to stuff sausage into a chicken, the chicken into a duck and the duck into a turkey to make the holiday dish called turducken?

And who else but someone from Cajun country would have conceived of deep-frying a turkey? Even the Cajun injector, a sort of oversized hypodermic needle used for injecting liquid flavorings deep into turkey breasts, was invented in Louisiana.

Which brings us to what I call Big Easy Turkey, a bird shot up with a Cajun injector and seasoned with Cajun seasonings before being smoke-roasted on the grill.

I know a true Louisianan would probably deep-fry the bird. But smoke-roasting offers at least four advantages over deep-fried. First, it’s a lot less dangerous. (Every year, some careless souls set fire to something, usually their garages, while frying turkeys.) Second, it’s a lot healthier because there’s no added fat. Third, the addition of wood smoke contributes a bold dimension to the flavor. Finally, smoke-roasting is more forgiving, in terms of precise cooking times, than is deep-frying.

So what the devil is smoke-roasting? It combines the virtues of smoking and indirect grilling. True smoking is done “low and slow,” at a low temperature for a long time. This method is unbeatable when it comes to turning out beef brisket and pork shoulder. But I’m not a big fan of smoking turkey because the temperature (typically 225 to 250 degrees) is too low to crisp the skin. I often find that smoked turkey skin comes out dry and leathery.

Indirect grilling is a process in which you cook the food on a covered grill next to, not over, the fire. On a charcoal grill, rake the coals into two mounds at opposite sides of the grill and do the cooking in the center over a drip pan. On a two-burner gas grill, set one burner on high and cook over the other, unlighted, burner. On a three-burner gas grill, light the front and rear burners (or the outside burners), and do the cooking in the center. On a four or six-burner gas grill, light the outside burners and do the cooking in the center. The advantage to indirect grilling is that it typically takes place at 325 to 350 degrees, hot enough to crisp the turkey skin.

Smoke-roasting combines the virtues of both methods. You work at a higher temperature, and you toss some hardwood chips on the mounds of coals or in the smoker box of your gas grill to generate the wood smoke flavor characteristic of true barbecue. (The chips are soaked in water first so that they smolder and smoke slowly, not ignite all at once.) If your grill doesn’t have a smoker box, wrap soaked chips in foil to make a flat package, poke some holes in the top to release the smoke and place the resulting pouch under the grate over one of the burners. I must tell you, though, that this method produces noticeably less smoke flavor than tossing wood chips on the embers of a charcoal grill. In fact, if you’re even halfway serious about this smoking business, I recommend
investing in an inexpensive covered charcoal grill, such as a 22 1/2-inch kettle.

The other piece of equipment you may want to have is the Cajun injector. It looks like an oversized hypodermic needle, and it is used for injecting butter and broth deep inside the turkey. The result is extra flavor and moistness and no more dried-out breast meat. Cajun injectors are available at most cookware shops and grill shops.

Friends and neighbors share tips on getting the dinner done in jig time
There isn’t a home cook in the world who doesn’t have a couple of fail-safe little tricks to get through the Thanksgiving marathon with her (or his) sanity intact.

After all, who has the time today, not to mention the oven space, to whip up three sides, homemade applesauce, a 20-pound turkey and several pies while watching the Thanksgiving Day parade? Wonder Woman doesn’t live here anymore.

So we polled a few of our friends and neighbors to find out how they get it all done without (appearing to) break a sweat. Here’s what they had to say.

Think you have to wait for the turkey to roast on the big day before starting your gravy? Not so, says Debby, a skilled home cook.

Here’s her time-saving suggestion: A few weeks before Thanksgiving, tosses a couple of turkey wings on a low-sided baking sheet with two carrots roughly chopped and an onion cut in half and roasts the trio at 450 degrees for 45 minutes or until golden brown. Next she puts the wings in a four-quart pot with flat leaf parsley, one bay leaf and enough low-sodium chicken broth and water to cover it all and cooks the broth (skimming occasionally). Cook for two to three hours, skim, strain and cool. The stock can then be frozen until Thanksgiving morning, and you can proceed to make gravy, adding the pan drippings from your bird, some butter and flour to thicken slightly and minced shallots to taste.

Naomi is what you might call a Thanksgiving aficionado. Not only does she bring the side dishes to her sister-in-law’s house on Thanksgiving, she also entertains her own large and extended family on the day after Thanksgiving. These two cooking days require much advance planning, which she considers essential, since on those two days she usually prepares only one last-minute dish. Everything else is done ahead. Sometimes that means making, frying and freezing corn fritters, which are given a last-minute whirl in the oven when the guests arrive.

Pumpkin soup is a family favorite that can be made ahead of time. This year, however, a sweet potato gnocchi is being given some consideration if it can be made ahead of time without losing flavor or texture. The cranberry relish is made by her father, who sticks by an old family recipe that includes chilling it outside in the snow. As for desserts, the last time she served pies, subcontracted the pie-making part of the process to her neighbor. The chiffonade of Brussels sprouts is one of those dishes she waits until the last minute to prepare.

One lesson she learned a long time ago: “It’s a big mistake to serve a lot of appetizers before the meal,” she said. “I put out some spiced pecans with cayenne pepper and some marinated olives, and that’s it. Otherwise, nobody is hungry when you finally sit down.”

When Nancy visits her cousin’s house in the country for Thanksgiving, there is always plenty of discussion of the savory and sweet dishes, the proper way to prepare them and what’s for dessert. Since she is a former pastry chef and her husband is an executive chef in Manhattan, a premium is placed on doing it right. Her husband has gained fame in the family for his Southwestern cranberry chutney flavored with ginger, cumin, cinnamon and jalapeño peppers. Even if he is working on Thanksgiving, he still supplies the extended family with his dish.

The sweet potato casserole so beloved by so many families is no longer a mainstay at the table, however. It’s been replaced by garlic mashed potatoes. Not as fattening and not as much work.

For Barbara, there’s not a lot you can do about making the turkey. “You just gotta stand there and cook it,” she says. But she isn’t letting the moss grow under her feet while waiting around. “The trick is to plan a menu and stick to it. Buy things, as much as you can, ahead of time. Order whatever you need way ahead of time, also. I’ve found that’s helped me a lot. There are all these people running around the day before Thanksgiving. That’s ridiculous. They don’t know how to plan their time,” she adds.

At the house, there actually are two Thanksgiving meals on the same day, and there can be as many as 20 or 30 people feasting there, so she needs to plan ahead. One meal, in the early afternoon, is based on the Italian tradition of pasta and more pasta, including manicotti and antipasti. The other meal, sometime around 6 p.m., is the turkey and all the trimmings. “One of the favorites are the twice-baked potatoes,” she says.

Her method for the potatoes sounds simple. For about 6 large baking potatoes, allow one per person. Bake them in the oven as you normally would at 350 degrees. When they are cool enough to handle, cut them in half lengthwise and scoop out all the flesh, leaving the skins intact. In a large bowl, combine the flesh with about a pound of sour cream, grated Parmesan cheese to taste (about 1/2 cup), salt and pepper to taste, and then mash the mixture well.

Leaving the oven on, of course, she then adds about 2 tablespoons of diced mozzarella cheese per potato to the mixture and spoons it back into the skins. “If you want, you also can sprinkle the tops with bread crumbs, but that’s optional,” she adds. The potatoes then go back into the oven and bake for about 15 more minutes. When serving, sprinkle with more diced mozzarella or additional Parmesan, if you want.

Planning ahead with the dessert is an easy step for her. Her grandmother’s ice box cake is always a winner, and a favorite at the crowded table. In a large 13-by-8-inch Pyrex dish, place a layer of graham cracker crumbs on the bottom (the thickness is up to you, but about 1/4 inch is good). On top of that comes a layer of chocolate pudding. “Not the instant stuff. The pudding you actually have to cook. I use 4 boxes of chocolate pudding and 2 boxes of vanilla pudding.”

Next, another layer of graham cracker crumbs. Then vanilla pudding. The pudding layers will be about 1 inch thick each. Then another layer of crumbs, and top the whole thing off with a last layer of chocolate pudding. Whew! “You can do this the day before, put it in the refrigerator and it will be just fine,” she says. Serve it with whipped cream, of course.”

There’s little holiday rest for Susanna, who often hoists a 38-pound turkey into the oven to feed, well, just about everyone. “It seems the guests all need a turkey fix the next day, so I make sure I have enough to send some home with each one of them and still have enough for myself to make the soup the next day,” she says. Her trick for keeping sane? “Make ahead whatever I can make ahead.”

That includes the stuffing ahead of time, which she either freezes or refrigerates. Even setting the table at least a day ahead of the dinner makes a difference. “I love a really beautiful table. That’s important to me. That means the crystal and the china, so I do that ahead of time, also.” One of her specialties, butternut squash soup, is also made ahead and is a sure winner, each year. About 3 squashes get roasted, along with an entire head of garlic. “The roasted garlic makes the whole thing very flavorful.”

She sautés a large Spanish onion, roughly chopped, in butter, with sprigs of fresh thyme and sage leaves, to taste. About 1 1/2 quarts of chicken stock, the cooked squash flesh, onions and herbs all get whizzed in a food processor until very smooth. The finishing touch is heavy cream, to taste. Made ahead, it can also be refrigerated or frozen. She serves it hot with a “dollop” of heavy cream, of course. “This is my favorite holiday, because it’s about food and being together and not about gifts,” she adds.

Thawing the turkey for safety’s sake

Follow these recommendations for thawing turkey to ensure your turkey is safely prepared for eating. Thawing the turkey in the refrigerator is the safest method. A turkey also can be thawed under cold water. Keep the turkey cold while thawing. That is the key to preventing harmful bacterial growth. Cook the turkey promptly after thawing.

Here are refrigerator thawing times for various size turkeys:

4 to 12 pound turkey takes 1 to 3 days to thaw in the refrigerator.

12 to 16 pound turkey, takes 3 to 4 days in the refrigerator.

16 to 20 pound turkey, takes 4 to 5 days in the refrigerator.

20 to 24 pound turkey, takes 5 to 6 days thawing time in the refrigerator.

Pieces of a turkey, such as a half or quarter will take 1 to 2 days thawing time in the refrigerator.

To thaw a turkey in cold water, check wrapping for tears. Then, place the bird in its unopened bag in the sink or in a large container and cover it with cold water. If the wrapping is torn, place the turkey in another plastic bag, close securely, and place in cold water. Change the water every 30 minutes to assure safe and effective thawing.

Turkey can also be thawed in a microwave oven. Since microwave ovens vary, check the manufacturer’s instructions for the size turkey that fits in the oven, minutes per pound, and the power level to use for thawing. Cook it immediately after thawing.

Do not thaw the turkey on the kitchen counter. A frozen turkey thaws from the outside in. As the surface warms, bacteria multiply. While thawing, the surface bacteria could multiply to dangerously high levels. One cannot rely on cooking to destroy all bacteria. In addition, some food poisoning bacteria produce toxins that can’t be destroyed through cooking.

Safety guidelines

Frozen, prestuffed turkeys should not be thawed before cooking. Cook them from the frozen state.

Frozen, unstuffed turkeys can also be cooked without being thawed.

A whole frozen turkey can be stored in your home freezer at 0 degrees or below for up to one year without loss of quality.

A fresh turkey must be cooked or frozen within 1 to 2 days.

Macy’s Day Parade
The Macy’s Day Parade is a holiday tradition that goes back nearly 80 years. You can also watch the parade. Macy’s Day Parade official website > http://www.macys.com/campaign/parade/parade.jsp
 
Thanksgiving meal tips from Martha Stewart > http://www.marthastewart.com
 
More recipes from Food Network > http://www.foodnetwork.com/food/et_hd_thanksgiving
 
Explore New England Travel Guide > http://www.explorenewengland.com/travel

The History of Thanksgiving
What did the Pilgrims eat on the first Thanksgiving? Find out with the History Channel’s special feature on the first holiday. Learn more >
 
http://www.historychannel.com/thanksgiving/

Timesaving tips
The biggest challenge for the cook on Thanksgiving is getting everything done at the same time, then getting all the food on the table while it is still hot. Here are some tricks that can help.

Stuffing
Many food-safety specialists recommend that you roast the turkey unstuffed because it is difficult to tell if the stuffing inside the bird has reached a high-enough temperature to kill bacteria.
If you decide to stuff it anyway, wait to stuff the turkey until just before it goes into the oven. To save time on Turkey Day, you can chop the dry ingredients a day ahead, then add the broth at the last minute.
The center of the stuffing should reach 165 degrees before you remove the turkey from the oven.

Mashed potatoes
Make your potatoes a day ahead and put them into an airtight container. Keep them in the refrigerator and reheat them in a microwave or conventional oven.
If you really want a head start, whip the potatoes as usual, then drop big dollops onto a wax-paper-covered cookie sheet and freeze until solid. Pull the frozen potatoes off the wax paper and drop them into a freezer bag. To reheat the potatoes, place the frozen dollops on a microwave-safe dish and reheat, stirring frequently until they are hot.

Yeast rolls
A day ahead, make your dough and allow it to go through the first rise. Shape the rolls, put them on a baking sheet, cover them with plastic wrap and put them in the refrigerator. They will rise again overnight. You can pop them in the oven to bake when you take the turkey out.

Cranberries
Make your sauce two days in advance and store it in the refrigerator. Gelatin molds should be made at least one day in advance to give them time to set up.

Gravy
Sorry, this is a last-minute deal unless you use a mix or a jar.

Pie
Pumpkin and fruit pies can be made a day in advance. Pumpkin pie should be stored in the refrigerator. Fruit pies are fine at room temperature.

NEED HELP?
If you need to call someone for last-minute help, try Butterball Turkey’s Talk-Line: 1-800-BUTTERBALL

RELATED LINKS
http://thanksgiving.allrecipes.com
http://www.turkeyhelp.com

How to defrost a turkey
To defrost a turkey in the fridge, allow 24 hours for every 5 pounds.
So, if you have a 15-pound turkey, it will take three full days to defrost.
A faster way is to defrost the turkey in a sink full of cold water. Make sure there’s enough water to submerge the turkey. This cuts the defrost time to 30 minutes per pound.
Remember to use cold water only and change it a few times during the process to keep it that way.

Roasting times for turkey
The roasting time for turkey depends on the size of the turkey and the temperature of the oven.
For a 325-degree oven, the time ranges from 3 to 5 hours.
Ideally, for the moistest results, roast the turkey until a thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the breast registers 160 to 165 degrees. The USDA recommends roasting until the turkey registers 180 to 185 in the thigh, but that overcooks the bird and dries out the meat.
Unstuffed turkey at 325 degrees:
8-12 pounds: about 3 hours
12-14 pounds: about 3 to 4 hours
14-18 pounds: about 3 3/4-4 1/4 hours
18-20 pounds: about 4 1/4-4 1/2 hours
20-24 pounds: about 4 1/2-5 hours

How to carve a turkey
Before carving, let the cooked turkey rest for at least 15 minutes after it has been removed from the oven to allow the juices to redistribute throughout the bird. A moist turkey is easier to carve. If the bird has not rested, the first few slices will be dry and then carving will turn to shredding.
The following method from Honeysuckle White allows the whole breast to be removed and then sliced:
1. Place the rested turkey on a cutting board.
2. Using a medium-length, sharp boning knife, cut straight down along the breastbone for a few inches until the knife stops.
3. Make a cut down the front of the breast along the wishbone.
4. With the knife parallel to the cutting board, make another cut along the bottom of the breast near the wishbone.
5. Make a cut between the breast and the drumstick.
6. Repeat Step 2 until the breast can be easily removed from the breast bone.
7. Place the whole breast on a platter and slice, using a long, sharp slice knife making long, smooth strokes across the grain. Quarter-inch slices are preferred. Leave the slices in the shape of the breast.
8. Remove the legs and wings. For dark meat, remove the thighs and slice similarly to the breast.

Storing leftover turkey
The key to leftovers is removing the turkey from the bone before you store the leftover meat.
Not only does it keep the meat moister and more flavorful, it makes a more convenient package in your refrigerator than that awkward-sized turkey.
Store the leftover meat in a sealed dish or in sealed plastic bags. Pre-slice as much meat as you can, especially for sandwiches.

Turkey is no fun without the dressing and all the side dishes. So here are some suggestions for your menu.

BASIC MASHED POTATOES > SERVES 4-6

Ingredients >
2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
Coarse salt
4 tablespoons ( 1/2 stick) unsalted butter, softened
3/4 to 1 cup half-and-half, warmed
Freshly ground black pepper

Method >
Put the potatoes in a large saucepan, add enough cold water to cover the potatoes by at least an inch. Add a good pinch of salt, and let the water come to a boil. Cover partway, reduce the heat to medium and cook until the potatoes are tender.
Drain the potatoes, return them to the pot and put them back over the heat to dry. Shake the pan and stir until the potatoes are floury and have made a film on the bottom of the pan. Turn the heat to very low.
Put the potatoes through a ricer and return them to the pan, or mash them until perfectly smooth with a hand masher. Beat the butter into the potatoes with a sturdy wooden spoon.
Add the half-and-half in small additions, about 1/4 cup at a time, stirring first, then beating vigorously each time once the cream has been absorbed. You may not need all of it. It depends on how thirsty the potatoes are and how loose you like your mash. Season with salt and pepper. Serve warm.

CRANBERRY-PEAR SALSA > MAKES 3 CUPS

Ingredients >
12 ounce fresh cranberries, picked over and stemmed
1 1/2 cups peeled, cored and coarsely chopped pears (about 2 medium or 1 large pear)
1/2 cup diced green bell pepper
1/4 cup honey
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 fresh serrano chile, cored, seed and minced
1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest
2 tablespoons fresh orange juice
1 tablespoon canola oil
Pinch salt

Method >
Coarsely chop the cranberries (or pulse them in a food processor until coarsely chopped). Combine all the ingredients in a large bowl and toss gently. Taste and adjust the seasonings.

CHESTNUT STUFFING > MAKES ABOUT 10 CUPS

Ingredients >
6 ( 1/2-inch thick) slices country-style bread, cut into 1/2-inch cubes (6 cups)
1 stick (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter
2 onions, chopped
4 celery ribs, chopped
3 tablespoons minced fresh sage or 1 tablespoon dried sage, crumbled
2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme or 2 teaspoons dried thyme, crumbled
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary or 1 1/2 teaspoons dried rosemary, crumbled
1 tablespoon minced fresh savory or 1 teaspoon dried savory, crumbled
2 cups (14 ounces) cooked and peeled whole chestnuts, coarsely chopped
1 cup turkey stock, chicken stock or store-bought low-sodium chicken broth
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method >
Put rack in middle of the oven and preheat oven to 325 degrees. Butter a 2 1/2- to 3-quart shallow baking dish.
Spread bread cubes on a baking sheet with sides and toast in oven, stirring occasionally, until golden, 10-15 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl. (Leave oven on.)
Melt butter in a 12-inch skillet over moderately low heat. Add onions, celery and herbs and cook, stirring until vegetables are softened, 10-12 minutes. Add chestnuts and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Transfer to bowl of bread cubes and add stock, parsley and salt and pepper to taste. Toss until well combined.
Transfer stuffing to baking dish. cover with foil and bake for 20 minutes. Uncover and bake until golden on top, about 10 minutes more.
Note: The stuffing can be assembled up to 1 day ahead. Cool completely, then refrigerate, covered. Bring to room temperature before baking. If you want to bake the stuffing inside the bird, this recipe is enough for a 12- to 14-pound turkey with some left over for baking separately.

ROASTED CAULIFLOWER WITH APPLE AND DILL > SERVES 4 (CAN BE DOUBLED)

Ingredients >
1 cauliflower, about 1 1/2 pounds, core removed and separated into florets
1/2 large red onion, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices from root to tip
1 large unpeeled apple, cored and coarsely diced
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
3 tablespoons dried currants
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons coarsely chopped dill weed

Method >
Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Toss together the cauliflower, onion, apple, olive oil and salt in a large shallow baking dish and spread the ingredients out into a single layer. Bake 20-30 minutes, stirring once or twice along the way, until some of the edges of the cauliflower begin to brown.
Stir in the currants and continue to bake for about 10 more minutes, stirring another time or two, or until most of the edges of the cauliflower are browned. Sprinkle with the dill, stir again, and scoop it into a serving dish.

BRAISED FENNEL > SERVES 4 (CAN BE DOUBLED OR TRIPLED)

Ingredients >
3 fennel bulbs, trimmed (8-10 ounces each)
2-3 tablespoons mild-tasting olive oil
About 1/2 cup dry white vermouth or dry white wine
About 1/2 cup chicken stock
Salt
Pinch of sugar, if needed
A splash of pastis, such as Pernod or Ricard, if needed

Method >
Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
Cut the fennel into 1- to 1 1/2-inch wedges.
Warm a film (thin layer) of olive oil in a 10- to 12-inch skillet over medium-low heat. Make a crowded mosaic of fennel wedges in the pan and cook until delicately golden on the bottom, about 5 minutes, then turn and gild the other side. Salt lightly. Remove the cooked wedges, add more oil as needed, and repeat until you have browned all the fennel.
Arrange the wedges in a flameproof baking dish that holds them in a single very crowded layer. Add vermouth and chicken stock in equal proportions to come to a depth of 1/2 inch. Bring the dish to a simmer, then transfer to the oven and bake until the fennel is tender, 20-30 minutes. Taste the pan juices — if they are thin tasting or too acidic, tilt the dish to one side until the juices puddle and stir in the optional sugar and/or pastis to balance the flavor. Set the baking dish over low heat until the juice bubbles. Serve promptly.
Note: This dish is good reheated. Cover very loosely and heat in a 350-degree oven.

BROWNED BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH PANCETTA > SERVES 8-12

Ingredients >
2 pounds Brussels sprouts
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 ounces pancetta or bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method >
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Trim the tough ends of the Brussels sprouts. Cut them in half lengthwise; if they are large, quarter them lengthwise. Blanch the Brussels sprouts for about 8 minutes in the boiling water, and drain.
Heat the olive oil over medium-high heat in a skillet large enough to hold all the sprouts (or use 2 skillets). Add the pancetta and cook about 3 minutes. Add the sprouts and cook until they become nicely browned and slightly caramelized on the cut side, 10-15 minutes. Stir and season with salt and pepper to taste.
This dish can be made ahead and will reheat nicely; but it is best cooked at the last minute.

HONEY-THYME CARROTS > SERVES 10

Ingredients >
1/4 cup ( 1/2 stick) unsalted butter
1/2 cup chopped shallots
1 1/2 pounds baby carrots
2 tablespoons honey
2 teaspoons dried thyme
1/3 cup chicken broth
1 cup heavy cream
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Method >
In a large skillet, melt the butter over medium heat, then add the shallots and carrots and cook, stirring, until the shallots begin to soften, about 3 minutes.
Add the honey and thyme and stir until the honey has coated the vegetables. Gradually add the broth and simmer, uncovered, until evaporated by half, about 15 minutes.
Stir in the heavy cream and reduce the sauce by about half, another 10 minutes. Stir in the nutmeg and season with salt and pepper.
Do-ahead: At this point, you can let cool, cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days. Reheat over medium heat before serving, being careful not to burn the carrots, or microwave on 50 percent power 5-6 minutes, until heated through.